Kalalau Magic

Anyone who knows me realizes that I get overly excited about trips.  I over-research for weeks/months, I over-plan our itinerary, and I over-worry that something will go wrong and it will fall to pieces.  When Heidi and Nic suggested we do a kid swap, I was so excited, I jumped up and squealed.  Yes, I over did it.

One week before our trip, a government helicopter crashed, closing down the trail "inevitably."  We heard from many people that "inevitably" usually means weeks, so we scrambled for other possibilities that could partially satisfy the hike bug I needed to work out of my system.  Thankfully, the trail opened up a few days later, but Kate got sick.  Until Tuesday night, we really were not sure if she would be recovered, and so we packed with anxiety.  By Wed, she was good and we were completely ready for our getaway.

Hilary and Derek came with us.  They moved here straight out of medical school a couple years ago.  Having travel buddies--especially ones with as much enthusiasm as we feel--is a perfect addition to an adventure.

Turquoise water:

Hilary strained her back the week before, and until we hit Hanakapai Beach, she was not sure if she could hack a backpacking trip.  Her back loosened up, though, and we were golden.

It had dumped rain all week.  We thought the trail would be a mud hole and the skies would be gray, but neither prediction was accurate.

Looking out over "the ledge":

 A chilling drop:

 When I hike on this trail, I always think that I'm so glad to be here instead of there:

 We initially thought this was Hanakoa Falls, the waterfall at mile 6.  I haven't tracked down the name of it, but as far as I know, you can't hike back to it (at least on established trails).

Love the tropical plants.  Sorry, Brady, you are not in many pictures.

I had a few goals for this trip:  1) Swim in Hanakoa Falls, 2) Sleep all night under the stars, 3)  Make it over to Honopu Beach, 4) Slide down the waterfall in Kalalau, 5) Eat guavas and oranges off the trail, and 6) Swim hippie-style at Kalalau.

Finally!  We reached Hanakoa Falls.  I say finally not because we were tired, but because it has taken well over 5 1/2 years for me to swim in this waterfall.  We tried with Matt and Megan before Zachary was born, but were unsuccessful, and hiked around in Hanakoa Valley for ages getting eaten alive (150 mosquito bites on my legs that outing!).  The anticipation hiking the whopping 0.5 mile off the trail to the falls was killing me--my heart raced and I was weak in the knees!  There she is:

 I've read accounts where people claim Hanakapai Falls is better than Hanakoa, and vise versa.  My observation is we had Hanakoa all to ourselves, and so the experience was more exclusive--which equates to better in my book.

Shortly after the falls, we hit the section of trail that landed this adventure in an article about "America's 10 Most Dangerous Hikes" by backpacker.com.  I am not sure if I was more prepared for it this time or less edgy, but mile 7 was not intimidating on this trip.  (I still refuse to take younger children, though.  It  is a narrow ledge on top of a 300' cliff with nothing to stop you from falling all the way into the jagged surf.)

Here are a couple pictures of that section on the way back:

 We reached Kalalau Valley with plenty of time to get camp set up, filter water, and catch the sunset.  I remember feeling so much more tired and achy the first time we did this about 4 1/2 years ago.  I'm not sure if I am in better shape (not likely), or if it was because my pack was so much lighter, but I felt refreshed more than exhausted.

 On the way in, we saw a (gnarly-looking) pit bull with his owner.  The dog hunted down his first goat.  Unfortunately, in the chase, the dog fell off the cliff.  He somehow survived, and swam into one of the beaches, where the owner tended to him and nursed him back to health for nine days.  This isn't the goat that led to the dog's "adventure," but reminded me of that hilarious encounter.

 Sunset #1:

We slept under the stars on the beach all night long.  We woke up the next morning with a companion named Piko.  He hung with us the rest of the trip.

This dog never barked, stayed loyal to us (despite every hippy in Kalalau knowing him and offering him food), and was a total gentleman.  He waited until you climbed down a rock before making his way down the same terrain--every time.  On the morning of our departure, Derek wanted to bring him home, but he disappeared just before we left.

Rock stacks in the Kalalau caves:

In the morning, we threw on suits and swam to Honopu Beach.  This is Brady's favorite beach in the world, and he was able to track down a dry bag and bring his camera along for the first time.  (You can't dock a boat or even a kayak here, so it is one of the most exclusive beaches on the island.)

Honopu Beach is said to be "the valley of the last tribe," in reference to the last of the mythical Menehune peoples living here.

We met Skip and Lindsey on the trail, and asked if they wanted to come along.  They are visiting on their 10 year anniversary trip from Indianapolis.  Another fun couple to share the experience with.

Brady captured images of the untouched sand--much like untouched snow after a storm.  It is so pretty to look at and you hesitate walking on it, but once you start, it is so fun to wreck.

 Beautiful shot:

 Dork moments jumping off the sand dunes:

 The famous Honopu arch--90' tall (the tallest in Hawaii):

Another waterfall:

This is my favorite picture from the trip.  It captures exactly how I felt:

We swam back, ate lunch, and headed back into Kalalau Valley.  Skip climbed high up a tree and shook these babies down for us (combined with the limitless guavas on the trail, check on goal #5).  These warm fruits were a flavorful mix between lemons and grocery store orange.

Swim hole:

Boys and tricks:

Brady shows us the proper way to go down Kalalau's water slide:

I was terrified of this thing.  I've been here two other times, but never ventured the whole slide, worried I would get injured on the mossy mess.

After my fearful first slide, I decided I had to try again and enjoy it.  Of course, this time I did get hurt.  I jammed my toe/foot.  It immediately swelled up and discolored, and it still hurts bad enough a week later that I can't walk without limping.

No hands:

We took a walk (hobble) through the hippie gardens...

...and came off the trail to the most spectacular view of the valley I've ever seen:

I got a little emotional turning the corner and gazing at the beach.  This trip was so satisfying and refreshing.

Night #2, I wanted to be in the water during the sunset.  Unfortunately, we were out of fresh water, and I was so slow with my foot.  Brady ran to the falls to filter and promised to make it back in time for the sunset.  Apparently, I miscommunicated where I'd be, and I thought we'd miss the moment, but he came running up the sand just in time to see the sky light up and get our last dip in the ocean.

We had our last night at camp in the hammocks, since it was raining a bit.  I was disappointed to realize that hammocks are more comfortable than sleeping under the stars.

The next morning, Hilary and I hit the natural showers, and we packed up and left.  The hike back was tough on my foot, but manageable.  With 1.5 miles to go, we came on a woman who hurt her ankle and could not walk.  Brady and Derek scored hero points and carried her down the muddy trail.  We finished the day with sushi and headed back to get our kids.

Magical.